with a wedge of appleby's cheshire in the house, one is always eating good in the neighborhood. It's a Neal's Yard cheese, and so far in San Francisco I've only found it at Whole Foods. There are other cheshires to be had in the city, and according to the grumpy proprietor of the cheese shop in my neighborhood Neal's Yard cheeses are overpriced, but to me Appleby's is the best tasting. It is the cheddar of my dreams. I know you shouldn't keep hard cheeses in the refrigerator, but I've always found that when left out, they take on a kind of oily sheen that I don't find very appetizing. The cheshire, on the other hand, gets better and better the longer it is left out. Fresh from the fridge it has a kind of firm but creamy texture; when left out it takes on a delectable crumbliness that intensifies the flavor. A piece of cheshire on a starr ridge cracker is a meal for kings. The only problem with leaving it out is that it can become a meal for dogs. Biscuit has to date swiped four blocks of cheshire carelessly left within swiping distance on the counter. She always does such a complete job, leaving nary a crumb, that I often don't realize until a day later. The dog is not known for her refined palate, but she makes an extra effort for the cheshire.