I would like to draw your atten­tion to a lit­tle-known (out­side the Jura-Mas­sif) cheese called comte (but of course it is pro­nounced cone-tay, just because the French can't let a con­so­nant be a con­so­nant). Like many moun­tain cheeses from that area of the world, it resem­bles a gruyere—a lit­tle nut­ty, a lit­tle creamy, a lit­tle tiny bit salty. Once I had it in a lit­tle restau­rant in France near the Swiss bor­der, and i said "ah tres bon!" or some­thing along those lines, and the French woman who served it to us said "Les vach­es! Les montagnes!"and she was right, the cows and the moun­tains made it good. When you ride a bike around there, there are all these cows graz­ing on the hill­sides, wear­ing big bells that make this love­ly hol­low ring­ing sound. It is the sound of cheese in the mak­ing. You can get it at the cheese store in Noe Val­ley where they are so mean and unpleas­ant (except on Tues­days when my friend Arzu works there.) I'm going to put in an order and we can all enjoy it togeth­er. Per­haps in the moun­tains.

cheese cheese lifestyle

Toothsome offender

Dou­glas, I notice that you are a repeat tooth­pick user. At the Bi-rite these days, they have tak­en to putting out cheese sam­ples at the most pop­u­lar time for shop­pers. From about 5:30 on, there are delight­ful lit­tle ramekins full of lit­tle bites of cheese—midnight moon, piave, vel­la mez­zo, pecori­no with truf­fles, sare­anah farm­stead, reg­giano. the dry cheese sec­tion of the bi-rite is the per­fect place to end an ear­ly evening run. if you are sweaty and bright red in the face, no one else will even come near the cheese sam­ples and you can eas­i­ly eat the whole lit­tle dish of que­so iberi­co, using only one tooth­pick. and some­times, in the refrig­er­at­ed sec­tion, they have a lit­tle plate of crack­ers spread with a lus­cious dol­lop of Hum­boldt Fog, a deli­cious aged goat cheese that while hav­ing a creamy tex­ture, is decid­ed­ly not a cream cheese.